The capital of BCS, La Paz, is a sprawling town on the center of the eastern coast that mixes adventure tourism with a local beat. We stayed a fair distance outside the main boardwalk area, known as the Malecon, which is clogged with touristy restaurants. Our unassuming neighborhood boasted tiny taco, ceviche, and fresh juice stands that had unpredictable hours and reliably tasty offerings.
I’ve made this crossing numerous times, both on foot and by bicycle, in an attempt to get to know some of the peninsula’s beaches, party towns, deserts, scuba diving spots, and steamy hot springs. I’ve also camped at half a dozen campgrounds, under some of the darkest and most star-spangled skies you can imagine.
Baja California Sur is ideally explored with your own set of wheels. As I planned the trip, I imagined myself taking in the freedom of the road and driving with open windows in search of hidden trails, hot springs, small coastal towns, and roadside taco stands.
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While it’s important that men also avoid getting drunk or leaving their drink unattended, women tend to be more targeted in bars. They are more likely to have their drink spiked and to be taken advantage of physically if they become drunk.
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Walking down dirt roads to deserted beaches was one of my favorite ways to take in the scenery, admiring open fields, the shadow of cacti dancing in the morning light, and brilliant orange and magenta bougainvillea crawling up dusty-rose adobe walls.
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I swam against the waves while searching for these mighty creatures. The cloudy water made them difficult to spot and suddenly I looked right down and was face-to-face with the wide mouth and immense, spotted body. Floating in the water, I admired the whale shark feeding before it disappeared into the depths of the sea.
Baja California (the more northern state) currently has a level 3 rating, warning travelers to “reconsider travel due to crime and kidnapping”. In a seemingly random incident in early May 2024, three tourists were murdered in a carjacking gone wrong on a remote beach near Ensenada.
And when all else failed? We hitchhiked. I wouldn’t always recommend hitchhiking but there were a few elements that made me comfortable doing so in this situation. I was with friends, the region is known for being quite safe, and hitchhiking is common here – we waited at most a minute for a ride to pick us up.
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This way, you can drive from Tijuana all the way down to Cabo, at the tip of Baja California Sur, and back up with pelo problems. However, even if you drive your own car, you should still take out Mexican car insurance.
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